Dallas Morning News - Empanadas make a handy meal

January 13, 2004

By SUSAN TAYLOR / Special Contributor

Empanadas – meat filling in a flaky crust – are Latin America's answer to a Cornish pastie, a calzone or a turnover.

Four or five of these tidy pastries served with red wine make a popular meal in Argentina, says Diana Maraslioglu, owner of Shine's Mediterranean Market.

Like pizza or other foods that can be eaten out of hand, empanadas are excellent for casual get-togethers or maybe a football party.

"Most countries in South America have empanadas, but in each country it's different," says Carlos Branger, owner of Zaguan World Bakery & Café in Oak Lawn.

"In the north in South America, they use corn flour. Southern South America uses wheat flour. In Chile, they're very big; Colombia uses potatoes," he says, citing some of the differences.

Even the edges that seal the pastries vary, from those simply crimped with a fork to others that are edged elaborately with pastry braids.

"The size, inside and outside can be different, but the shape is always the same." And that's similar to a half-moon.

In Argentina, where Ms. Maraslioglu and her family lived before coming to Dallas, some shops sell only empanadas, including those filled with cheese, spinach and corn, as well as those with traditional meat fillings.

According to Ms. Maraslioglu, empanada styles vary from state to state within Argentina.

Shine's bakes its pastries in the style of those found in the state of Mendoza – filled with beef, onions, spices and olives.

Zaguan deep-fries its empanadas. The offerings include Venezuelan-style empanadas made with corn flour and filled with beef, chicken or cheese; and Argentinean-style, made with wheat flour and filled with beef, chicken or spinach and cheese.

Both Ms. Maraslioglu and Mr. Branger agree that red wine is an excellent match for empanadas. Ms. Maraslioglu prefers merlot. Mr. Branger recommends cabernet.

Empanadas also work as appetizers before a meal such as a barbecue, says Ms. Maraslioglu.

In Venezuela, Mr. Branger says, it's also common to eat an empanada (usually cheese) for breakfast at a café with coffee. Small empanadas, called empanaditas, are served as appetizers. Both Shine's and Zaguan make empanaditas.

For a casual dinner gathering, figure on two to six per person, depending on their size (more for teenage boys) and as appetizers, plan two per person.

At Shine's, empanadas come freshly baked or frozen and cost $1 each.

At Zaguan, Venezuelan empanadas cost $2.99 for two and Argentinean cost $4.69 for two. Empanaditas can be ordered at both places.

Shine's Mediterranean Market, 14902 Preston Road (southeast corner on Belt Line Road near Stein Mart), 972-763-1842.

Zaguan World Bakery & Café, 2604 Oak Lawn, 214-219-8393.

Empanadas

Susan Taylor is a Dallas freelance writer.