Denton Record Chronicle - Yerba Mate

Trends: An exotic sip

Get your bombilla ready - a South American favorite called yerba maté
is gaining fans in North America

06/18/2003

By SUSAN TAYLOR / Special Contributor

Yerba maté, the herbal drink popular in South American countries, is making its way to America via Argentine immigrants and health-conscious people looking for a pick-me-up alternative to coffee.

According to Luis Belozerco, an Argentine and a food scientist in the United States, the drink contains mateine, a close relative of caffeine, which provides the alertness of caffeine without the jitters or sleeplessness.

Because maté has a reputation as an energizer, a number of companies are marketing it to North Americans in the form of tea bags and specially designed "pods" for use in espresso machines. The drink can be made with hot or cold water, so it can substitute for iced tea. Internet sites also suggest preparing the herbal drink in a French press.

Although yerba maté looks like tea, the traditional way to prepare the brew is quite different from the way we prepare and drink tea.

The traditional maté cup is made from a gourd; the drink is sipped through a bombilla, a stainless steel straw with a filter on the end. It's very common to see people in Argentina walking in parks and plazas drinking from a bombilla and gourd.

The perfect maté

Preparing a new gourd: Fill a gourd with maté leaves and hot water. Let it stand overnight. Wash and gently scrape the inside of the gourd. Let it dry thoroughly.

Preparing maté in a gourd: Have a pitcher of hot (not boiling) water handy. Fill a maté gourd with leaves, leaving at least an inch of space at the top. Add sugar, honey or artificial sweetener (optional).

Wet the leaves with cold water and then push the bombilla into the center of the gourd at an angle with the top leaning against the side of the gourd. This mixes the sweetener into the leaves.

Pour in enough hot water to bring the mixture to the brim; the water is then absorbed by the expanding leaves. (If the water is boiling, it will foam and the water will not sink into the expanding leaves until it is cooler.) Let it steep for a minute or two and then sip from the bombilla.

There will be enough liquid for two or three sips. Pour more hot water into the gourd, sip and repeat, adding sweetener as necessary, until there is no flavor left. This could take 15 pourings.

SOURCE: Diana Maraslioglu

 

Diana Maraslioglu, who moved to America last year with her family from Argentina, says that the drink is at least as popular as coffee in Argentina. But, she adds, it's not a drink of high society.

The Guarani Indians of Paraguay and Uruguay introduced the drink – considered to be the national drink of Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay – to the colonizing Europeans.

In Uruguay, according to Ms. Maraslioglu, the drink is so popular that special over-the-shoulder leather cases with compartments for a thermos, a gourd and a bombilla are a common sight. Truck stops in Uruguay have places for truck drivers to recharge the batteries that keep their thermoses of water hot.

Mr. Belozerco, who left Argentina 15 years ago, has a collection of maté containers that he keeps in a cabinet, and he drinks maté a couple times a week with his wife.

But, he reflects, "It's more of a ceremony," which can take an hour to share. 

 

In South America, maté is often shared by farmers, gauchos, urban teenage musicians and groups of friends. The gourd is passed around using specific rules of conduct.

For many people, much of the enjoyment of the drink comes from the ritual of drinking the ancient beverage in the traditional way.

Susan Taylor is a freelance writer for The Dallas Morning News.
 

 

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